5 Tips Every Four Season RVers MUST Know

1) The underside of an RV is exposed to the elements. To combat the cold, consider using layers of insulation (such as foil insulation, down comforter, foam) under the mattress.

2) Vent cushions fit into roof vents to help reduce heat loss and condensation in these areas.

3) UltraHeat model 1200 RV Heater can protect a 40-gallon holding tank. Clean the tank’s surface with isopropyl alcohol, peel off the protective paper, and stick it in place. It's used to keep exposed plumbing from freezing and works on holding tank, pipes and elbows in a typical RV application.

4) Apply some new foam adhesive to the doorway of your recreational vehcile, and then adjust the striker plate as necessary to achieve a perfect, leak-free fit. This helps keeps warm air in and cold air out. Another type of doorway uses a nader pin instead of a striker plate. To adjust these, simply loosen the pin and turn it one direction or the other to tighten your seal.

5) When the wind blows, cold air can get in through a range vent. Replace the hood with a “flapper” valve that stays closed until the fan is on.

Keeping Warm in Your RV This Winter

When the weather gets cold, your RV can be a welcome sanctuary, but is it ready for the big freeze?

RV Buyers Beware (old language new meaning)

When purchasing a new RV there are a few things that need to be brought out to the light, Some RV Manufactures have put “NEW MEANING” into “OLD” accepted phrases.  In 2007, the market dropped nearly 70% and the cost of production had to be minimized.   “Heated Holding Tanks” was a common phrase and meant that tanks had electrical heating panels attached to the tank.



The Old Meaning of "Heated Underbelly"

 How is this term “Heated Holding Tanks” used by “some” manufactures today?  

Electrical Heat Panels are removed and several RV manufacturers are putting a 2" or 4" heat ducts into the belly of the RV.   Now, they can say they have “heated tanks” when in reality, this is market trickery. 

In most cases they haven't reduced the overall price of the unit but they have taken away a crucial element from your unit.  You are mis-lead to believe that you have cold weather protection!

Here are the basic facts why "Heated Underbellies" do not work:

1. Air from the furnace will follow the path of least resistance.  Without a return air vent from the belly of the unit, you are blowing hot air into the closest hole going to the outside.  If your tanks are not in that path, they get no heat!
2. Let's give the manufacturer's the benefit of the doubt: 

The bottom is sealed completely and they have installed a cold air return, (I have yet to see one that does this, it would let too much cold air back into the living space of the RV),  the air will still go the path of least resistance so if your tanks aren't in this path they still won't get heat.

3. Again let’s give them the benefit of the doubt and say air somehow air is going past all of your tanks to a cold air return.  The area they are trying to put heat into is an area that has almost as much square footage as the living area of the complete RV.  How can they expect to keep this area warm when they have a hard time keeping the bedroom warm and in most cases the bedroom has multiple 4" ducts and proper return air ventilation? Even if they do get a little heat into the storage tank area, heat rises.  Your tanks will start to freeze from the bottom.  All pickup lines for you fresh water tank and dump points for your gray and black tanks are at the bottom.

4. In most cases electric space heaters are being used inside the RV because of the cost of the propane which will limit how much the furnace runs. If they are trying to heat the tanks with ducted air it obviously only works when the furnace is running. Now think; what is the first thing you do when leaving your RV? Naturally, you turn the furnace off to limit the propane use.



The new meaning of "Heated Underbelly"

 In summary, when they tell you "Heated Holding Tanks" in literature or during the sales pitch, be sure to ask how this is being accomplished. When you truly have heated holding tanks they will work independently of the furnace, turn on and off as necessary, and work if you are in your RV or away.

So, next time you go to purchase a a new RV remember to ask if by heated underbelly they are referring to the "OLD MEANING", which is a common phrase and meant that tanks had electrical heating panels attached to the tank.or the “NEW MEANING”, that means you get heated duct air? 

Learn more about Heated Ducted Air versus Eletrical Heating Panels >>>

Learn More About UHI Worldwide >>>

ATTENTION: Full Season RV Campers - Demand more from your dealers!

Dealers take note, four season RVer's are getting younger, travel longer, and pay closer attention to securing their investments. They want the best products that truly address their FULL-SEASON needs.

With this in mind, why not carry a fantastic product for both "NEW" RV owners and seasoned RVers who need an all-weather recreational vehicle water and waste system protection RETROFIT solution?

Four-Season RVer are demanding UHI Worldwide's UltraHeat Panels, which provide protection against liquid freeze-up (below -11° F) in holding tanks, pipes and elbows. UltraHeat is made in the USA with nearly twenty (20) years as the RV Industry standard. 

Check out this short video to better understand the benefits of carrying UltraHeat as the ELITE solutions for full-time RVer's who need a complete all-weather water and waste protection system that gives them more "BANG" for their "BUCK"!


To learn more about UHI Worldwide and its other great brands and products visit: http://uhiworldwide.com/